Sunday, February 21, 2016

The Last 10%




The last 10% takes 90% of the work...







Forward Locker and Anchor Well


Installing bulkhead for forward locker





Vents for forward 4 bottom chambers



Cardboard templates for locker top


Glassing locker top and slopwell bottom ½ ACX ply
Glassing the trim on the anchor well bulkhead

Anchor well bulkhead ready for installation



Locker top and anchor well bulkhead installed


Installing 10oz fiberglass in anchor well

Meranti laminated over locker top and drain edge installed
around rim of opening

Glassing the edge of the locker lid



Locker lid completed with drip edge
Fore locker and anchor well ready for varnish

Anchor well drain installed



Anchor well floor painted with RustOleum Topsides White Gloss




Locker floor painted with RustOleum Topsides White Gloss


Underside of locker lid varnished


Four coats of varnish on the forward locker lid.

Forward locker with three coats of varnish







Slopwell


Slopwell bulkhead construction

Slopwell bottom


Slopwell bulkhead construction


Slopwell bulkhead ready for installation

Slopwell bulkhead installed and ready for varnish



Slopwell floor painted with RustOleum
Sand Beige Gloss (Yuck!) Need to repaint
with a different color


Slopwell floor painted with Pettit Easypoxy 
Bright Work Brown Gloss (much better)




First coat of varnish on bulkhead



First coat of varnish on slopwell




Miscellaneous


Registered and paying taxes

Anchor roller block and "This End Forward"
arrow ready for varnish

Waste epoxy


Geologic section of the Boat BW








Fuel Locker

In front of the pilothouse console will be a locker to house a pair of 19-gallon saddle tanks. The locker will also serve as seats.

Fuel locker sides clamped for interior fillets

Exterior corners rounded sanded and taped with 6-oz fiberglass
Select pipe used for rim of fuel locker lid



Glassing edges of plywood on fuel locker lid


Fuel locker in about its final
location. Ready for fillet and
taping to bottom then varnishing.


Fuel locker epoxied to dech with 17oz biax inside and out



Interior of the fuel locker with brackets for the
fuel tanks and vents for bulkhead spaces
below the deck.
I did not like the flat lid for the fuel locker so I rebuilt it with a curve to match the pilothouse curved roof.

Members for the curved fuel locker lid glassed and
ready for assembly

Members for the curved fuel locker lid assembled
as a frame

Curved fuel locker lid glued to frame

Inside of curved fuel locker lid varnished

Inside of curved fuel locker lid varnished


Four coats of varnish on the fuel locker lid.


Fuel tanks installed. Although not compliant,
this installation is temporary until I
decide how far fore/aft I want the fuel tanks.




I installed the world's best fuel level gauges.






















They need no power.



















They require no wiring.
















They never fail.















They always read exactly correct.












Just open the fuel locker lid...











And look at the fuel level.






Rear Bench Seat

There will be a fold-up bench seat along the slopwell bulkhead.

Glassing the select pine
frame pieces

Laminating 9mm meranti to the select pine frame pieces

Epoxying the 12mm meranti panel into the
select pine frame


Glassing the rounded edge of the select pine frame

Filling the weave

Installing 18mm meranti center beam

Blocks, to support the back of the bench, installed
along bottom of slopwell bulkhead

Applying glass tape to the edges of the bench-front support blocks

Laminating two layers of 18mm meranti together the create
the bench-front support blocks


Glassing the bench-front support blocks
Reinforcing for the hull side panels where the
bench-front support blocks will be installed

Bench-front support block ready for installation

Dry fit to determine location of the bench-front support blocks

Bench-front support block glued to side panel
and clamped with temporary screws

Bench-front support block glued installed

Bench bottom being varnished





Non-Skid

Been trying different ideas for clear non-skid surface on bright-work. Found this product "Seymour Good Grip" at Lowes web site and ordered some.



Tried it on a test varnished panel.

Good Grip on varnished test panel

On the plus side, it is definitely clear and after curing it is non-skid and seems hard to scratch. Unfortunately it takes the gloss off and leaves an eggshell finish. But I guess that should be expected in an non-skid surface. I would probably use it except....


As soon as I sprayed it on, some areas immediately started to peel/flake before drying and remained that way after drying.

Good Grip peeling/flaking


And the Lowes website did not mention what it says on the can, "Recoat every few months."

I don't think this is my solution for a clear non-skid surface on bright-work.


Varnish and Paint

I hate sanding. But it's gotta happen to smooth out the lumps and remove the sheen from the epoxy wherever varnish or paint will be applied.

Sanded hull interior

Four coats of varnish on the sheer and rails

Varnish on the fuel locker and hull side panels


One coat of Pettit Easypoxy Bright Work Brown Gloss on the deck
One coat of Pettit Easypoxy Bright Work Brown Gloss on the deck


One coat of Pettit Easypoxy Bright Work Brown Gloss on the deck


Mechanical Installations

Cables are routed from the console to the transom, above deck, with no deck penetrations.


Cable routing above deck.


Cables run under the sheer, through holes drilled in the knees


Cables at transom end

Completed console. I am not a huge fan of bling (chart plotters
fuel, tilt, voltage gauges, radios, etc). All I like to see are
the tachometers.


Cables inside 2-inch split wire loom

Brass cleats, three along each sheer deck





On to the Trailer





Canola oil on the bunks helped the boat slide.





¼-inch laminated safety glass installed


Off of the Trailer

Looks like the old trailer is too short. Even with the axle as far back as possible, when I install the outboards there will not be enough tongue weight. Time for a new trailer that can handle the new, longer boat.

Run lines from the bow loop to a tree at the stern

Use the car to pull the old trailer out from under her, placing
tires under her as I go.

Resting on tires waiting for the new trailer

This is a great way to test the strength of the new boat, yanking it on and off trailers, in the dry, a couple of times.

Back on to the Trailer

Got the new trailer. A single axle 3100-pound capacity King galvanized trailer.

Starting to wench her on to the new trailer

Just a little canola oil on the bunks to help the boat slide on.


A little further

Almost there


Once she comes level the winching gets easier.

Mounting the Motors

Built my own engine lift to move the old Honda 50Hp 4strokes from the old Lady C to the new boat.







Ready for a test float!!